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In
July of 2001, Jim Donnelly, Dale Cottam and Nathan Cottam departed for
the Cordillera Blanca to climb three or four high peaks. The list of possible peaks was long,
but there was one that we all agreed should definitely be on the list: Artsonraju.
The pictures were breathtaking, the route seemed challenging but within our
limits, and recommendations were high from other climbers we had met. When
we arrived in Peru our guide, Hernando
Oropeza Lliuya , said conditions on “Arteson” were good. In fact, he had
scaled it a few weeks prior. We immediately placed Artesonraju on our itinerary.
PISCO/TRAGEDY
ON HUANDOY
The next
day we departed Huaraz for Pisco. On
the way up we had a friendly brush with the Chilean party that would unfortunately
meet with disaster on Huandoy in a few days time.
Over
the next three days we approached and summited Pisco. We topped out just as
the sun came up, revealing Bohemian crystal skies. We enjoyed a perfect view
of some of the grandest peaks in the Andes. Just over the Laguna Paron was
Artesonraju. Near the top we could barely make out two climbers through our
telephoto camera lens, nearly to the summit ridge just where we hoped to be
in a few days. Although we were tired from our long climb on Pisco, we already
had a severe case of summit fever for Artesonraju. We knew we would get our
chance after a bit more acclimatization. We next departed for the Ishinca valley
to attempt Ishinca and Tocllaraju. On the day we arrived we heard of the tragedy
on Huandoy. The Chilean summit team of three climbers was struck by an avalanche
in a steep coulouir between Huandoy Norte and Huandoy Este. The avalanche
carried them all the way down to the glacier below killing all three climbers.
ISHINCA VALLEY
 Ishinca
was in perfect condition last year. The climb was a real treat—not too difficult
but beautiful and interesting. The highlight of the climb was the ice cave
with wild, twisted icicles and endless blue caverns.
Our
climb of Tocllaraju was a bit more challenging. On our way to the 17,200’ high camp,
we learned that two teams of 12 French and Slovenian climbers were turned back
just short of the summit by 100 mph plus winds that morning as the sun was coming
up. We then realized we would have to leave at midnight that night to avoid
the fate of the French and Slovenians. As darkness arrived, the winds died
down and when we awoke at midnight the stars were bright, the Milky Way clear
and the air was calm. We were getting our chance to make a summit bid.
The
clear but very cold weather held until just a few hundred feet from the top. We stood
looking up at the most technical part of the climb as the winds picked up and
the sky began to cloud over. Hernando, determined to get to the top before
it became too dangerous, set off up the 60 degree wall. With the grace of
a dancer he seemed to pirouette up the face using only his
frontpoints.
With the anchor set and time being crowded out by wind and clouds it was Nathan’s
turn up the wall: “I carefully swung my ice-tools and stuck my crampons. A
few steps up and my right ice-tool pulled free. At once the reality of the
plunge below me, by now 6000 meters of altitude and the possibility of another
slip met head on with; ‘how secure are those anchors?’ and ‘can this rope and
150 lb Hernando really stop me should I fall?’ No time to wonder now, I was
committed and glad for it. I climbed out of myself and back onto the mountain.”
Reaching
the top of the wall paid off. Our heads were light with adrenaline as we looked
out over the ridge to the other side of the mountain. Tufts and trails of snow
and cloud rode bold winds up the cliffs and raced over the ridge and we watched
cornices grow to be the size of houses. From here we made the summit quickly
but the weather was worsening and Hernando fairly pushed us back down after
two quick pictures. It seemed to take forever to get back down the same wall
and as visibility dissipated fast we wondered if we hadn't climbed ourselves
into an epic. Once at the bottom of the wall the descent picked up pace and
before long we were celebrating with high energy in the safety of high camp.
ARTESONRAJU
(PARON VALLEY)
After
leaving the Ishinca Valley and after big meals at La
Brasa Roja we traveled to Laguna Paron and up to the high camp on Artesonraju. Daily snows, low visibility and words of extreme caution from climbers who
had been on the mountain in the days before convinced us to hold off for another
day or two before attempting the final push. The weather did not break, however.
Night after night snow dusted our tent and loaded up the 50-degree slope we
were intending to climb. Each morning we watched the summit take a few minutes
of sunshine before wrapping a mote of cold clouds and wind about its towers.
Two avalanches swept upper portions of the mountain while we waited for our
chance. Unfortunately, the route did not come into good condition before we
had to leave. Atesonraju would have to wait.
Our trip
to the Cordillera
Blanca was magical. We saw the most beautiful mountains in the world,
climbed to over 6,000 meters, looked into wondrous ice caves and met some of
the most genuine people on earth.
Nathan Cottam
Boston, MA
Dale Cottam
Cheyenne, WY
Englewood, CO
Santa
Cruz Expeditions organises
guided mountaineering expeditions, treks, and support staff plus a quality mountaineering
equipment hire service in the heart of the Peruvian Andes.
Andean
Trails, a Scottish based adventure tour company, operates trekking, climbing,
trekking peaks, jungle expeditions and mountain biking in Peru, Bolivia and
Patagonia.
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