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Lundy High

Rock Climbing on the Isle of Lundy

Three mile long and half a mile wide, Lundy lies 10 miles off the coast of North Devon where the Atlantic meets the Bristol Channel 

 Information

Access - by boat from Barnstaple or Bideford. Phone 01237 470422 for prices and booking details.

Accomodation - from camping at £5 a night to the rental of Millicombe House at £40 a night each. Booking in advance only. Phone 01628 825925 (Bookings through the Landmark Trust)

Guidebook - Lundy, Climbers Club Cuides, Gary Gibson/Paul Harrison, ISBN 0-901-601-55-1.

Conditions - Lundy has its own weather system it seems, subject to Atlantic gales and fogs.It can however escape the rain that the mainland may get. Many climbs are tidal and the range here is up to 10 metres. Care must be taken to belay securely at sea level.

Rock - Granite, varying from gentle slabs to steep cracks, and a wide variation of textures.

The Isle of Lundy is an unusual place. A brick shaped island guarded by cliffs on all sides the only landing place for boats is one that has been created by man. A large section of cliff being blasted away on the Islands southern tip. The Island has unusual varieties of plant and animal life. Seals are a common sight and often watch the climbers!

The best way to experience Lundy is to stop for a few days. It is possible to do a climb on a day visit, but that is a tight schedule. The climbs all lie on the western coast, and are mostly accessed by abseil. Some of these being rather intimidating. Lundy's most popular climb is The Devils Slide, a 400 foot (120 Metre) slab climb and a true classic. Though perhaps not as good as its companion climbs, Satans Slip and Albion. Two escellent sea stacks are a must. The Needle and the Devils Chimney

There is no transport on the island. However it only takes an hour to walk from North to South. It is worth going to the top of the Old Light from where you get a superb view of the whole island.

Locating some of the routes can be difficult.The coast line is very complex with many deep inlets and small bays. Take an abseil rope and prussik loops to aid escape

Some Lundy Classic Routes

Slabs

  • Devils Slide - Hard Severe
  • Satans Slip - E1
  • American Beauty - E1
  • Holiday in Cambodia - E1

Cracks

  • Road Runner - VS
  • Indy 500 - E1
  • Centaur - HVS

Corner/Aretes

  • Abion - VS
  • Formula One - HVS

Face Climbs

  • Headline - E1
  • Dark Power - E2
  • Promised Land - E3

Sea Stacks

  • The Needle - Hard Severe
  • The Devils Chimney - VS


Transfer boat


Devils Slide


Devils Slide


Devils Slide


Devils Slide


Needle Rock


Needle Rock

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