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Rock Climbing on the Isle of Lundy
mile long and half a mile wide, Lundy lies 10 miles off the coast of North
Devon where the Atlantic meets the Bristol Channel
Access - by boat from Barnstaple
or Bideford. Phone 01237 470422 for prices and booking details.
Accomodation - from
camping at £5 a night to the rental of Millicombe House at £40
a night each. Booking in advance only. Phone 01628 825925 (Bookings through
the Landmark Trust)
Guidebook - Lundy, Climbers
Club Cuides, Gary Gibson/Paul Harrison, ISBN 0-901-601-55-1.
Conditions - Lundy has
its own weather system it seems, subject to Atlantic gales and fogs.It can
however escape the rain that the mainland may get. Many climbs are tidal
and the range here is up to 10 metres. Care must be taken to belay securely
at sea level.
Rock - Granite, varying
from gentle slabs to steep cracks, and a wide variation of textures.
The Isle of Lundy is an unusual place. A brick shaped
island guarded by cliffs on all sides the only landing place for boats is
one that has been created by man. A large section of cliff being blasted
away on the Islands southern tip. The Island has unusual varieties of plant
and animal life. Seals are a common sight and often watch the climbers!
The best way to experience Lundy is to stop for a few days. It is possible
to do a climb on a day visit, but that is a tight schedule. The climbs all
lie on the western coast, and are mostly accessed by abseil. Some of these
being rather intimidating. Lundy's most popular climb is The Devils Slide,
a 400 foot (120 Metre) slab climb and a true classic. Though perhaps not as
good as its companion climbs, Satans Slip and Albion. Two escellent sea stacks
are a must. The Needle and the Devils Chimney
There is no transport on the island. However it only takes an hour to walk
from North to South. It is worth going to the top of the Old Light from where
you get a superb view of the whole island.
Locating some of the routes can be difficult.The coast line is very complex
with many deep inlets and small bays. Take an abseil rope and prussik loops
to aid escape
Some Lundy Classic Routes
- Devils Slide - Hard Severe
- Satans Slip - E1
- American Beauty - E1
- Holiday in Cambodia - E1
- Road Runner - VS
- Indy 500 - E1
- Centaur - HVS
- Abion - VS
- Formula One - HVS
- Headline - E1
- Dark Power - E2
- Promised Land - E3
- The Needle - Hard Severe
- The Devils Chimney - VS
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