Climbing and Bouldering UK

New Laund

climbing informationDescription: Delightful small bouldering crag - North West facing but sheltered. It gets the sun from approximately 2pm onwards. Superb rough pocketed "Reef Knoll Limestone" and generally good tops, although routes 4 and 5 have dubious rock at the top so traversing off is recommended on these two routes. It is also recommended that you have a spotter on most routes as a couple of other holds have snapped without warning.

Location: Between Dunsop Bridge and Chipping. Easiest approach is via the minor road signposted "Bowland Wild Boar Park" at Burnholme Bridge - 2 miles South of Dunsop Bridge. The small crag can be seen from the road 1.5 kms along this lane. Parking space for one car, so please park at the bridge if there is already one car there. Access to the field must not be blocked. Approach via the footpath. No access rights have been agreed so please leave if asked to!

Map SD 64     GR. 649471

History: The lines shown here were cleaned/developed by Tom Phillips, Dick Gerrish and Sharon Gerrish on 19th Oct 2003. Further lines added by Tom Phillips and Bruce Jardine on the 9th November 2003. Climbing has been done at this venue before but no records exist. Now the routes have been cleaned up it now makes a worthwhile venue.

Some photos can be seen here.

Please email comments to tom@pcoms.com

 

1 Truckin' easy V0 4a Easy groove line
2 Truckulent V0 5a Left side of the steep arete
3 Truckin' hell V1 5b The steep friable crack
4 Flying Truck V2 5b From the back of the bay link the pockets to join route 5
5 What the truck V2 5b Climb the crack to a spike hold
6 Keep on truckin' V2 6a Reachy moves for the high pocket - traverse off
7 Truckanory V1 5b Climb in a direct line up to the small tree
8 Centre lane V0 5a Climb from the undercling at overlap through the break
9 Slip road V0 4b Direct line passing the "letterbox" hold above the break
10 Go truck yourself V1 5b The upper wall using poor pockets
11 Have a stobbart it V0 4c Steep groove line
12 Norbert Dentresangle V0 5a Steep wall left of tree on pockets
13 Road kill V? ? Steep corner to a poor finish (not completed)
14 Flying Trucker V0 4c From just right of the corner crack move up to a large hold on the arete
15 Truckers arse V0 5a Start from hole in the arete
16 A Road Vo 4a Easy wall

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