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Category: Rock Climbing
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Birchshow Rocks Bouldering Free Topo - Bouldering Venue near Settle, North Yorkshire. A really pleasant venue when the Dales are wet this area can stay dry. Quick to access and family friendly!


Note: No offical right of access but the rocks lie very near a footpath. Just park sensibly and don't go in large groups. If you have several cars leave some at the Gigglewick Station.

Best place to park is next to the gate (but not blocking it) where the red arrow crosses to road on the second map.
Rock is very quick drying and landings are all just about perfect.

We haven't named problems, as the place must have been climbed on before, (but there was no evidence of this - ie loose holds and dirt on first wall). Several posts on UK climbing have also produced no history of this venue.

FIRST WALL AND BOULDERS

1. V0 A little loose towards top
2. V1** A very good problem
3. V0 Bear left at top to avoid a heathery finish
4. V1 The arete on it right side
5. V0 the easier short wall just right of the arete
6. V0 Easy roof on big holds
7. V0/1 SDS One move from starting sloppers
8. V0 Over the big block - sit down start possible?

SECOND WALL

 

1. V0
2. V0
3. V1 The crack direct is trickier than it looks unless you have a very long reach
4. V0

LITTLE PROW

Little prow - three easy lines
1. V0 SDS The nose direct
2. V0 SDS The centre of the wall
3. V0 SDS Keeping to the right of the wall


TRIPLE OVERHANGS

1. V0
2. V0
3. V0
4. V0
5. V1* sit start, over the roof by a tricky mantel, diect up the upper wall

 

2. as above
3. as above
4. as above
5. as above
6. V0 SDS
BIG PROW

 

1. V0 the tiny corner using an odd pocket
2. V1 Direct up the face using slopers
3. V0 direct past small pocket
4. V2* low start to the large jug - then mantleshelf this without using face holds above the jug
5. V2*** the spectacular arete

BIG ROOF AND LAST WALL

1. V0 easy line right of arete
2. V0 left of big roof
3. V3** the spectacular roof
4. V0 easy corner
5. V2 SDS. left side of wall without the horizontal break or left edge
6. V0/V2 SDS centre of wall harder if you miss out horizontal break and pocket
7. V3* SDS right of centre (miss out horizontal break) using tiny horizontal edge
8. V2 SDS right end of wall (miss out horizontal break) gain top via sloping edge
9. V0 SDS the fine little arete/roof
10 V2** SDS a fierce start and tricky roof (avoid stepping rightfor true V2)
11 V2 SDS puzzling route

many variations possible on the last wall.
Please send comments or grades, or new variations to This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.